There's something about surfing that changes people.
Maybe it's the stoke of riding a wave. Maybe it's being part of nature. Or maybe it's the fact that you can't bring out your cell phone, laptop or fax machine to the lineup.
Whatever it is, most surfers feel it.
It's a spirit, a way of life.
And Cynthia Derosier, author of "The Surfer Spirit Book," is convinced surfing can help Hawaii's at-risk youth.
In partnership with Girls Court and The Surfrider Foundation's O'ahu Chapter, Derosier started The Spirit Sessions, a six-week program aimed to help at-risk teens redirect their lives in a positive way through surfing and other ocean-related activities.

Derosier talking with some of the girls on Saturday at Kuhio Beach.
The series consists of weekly surf lessons with trained instructors and mentors — including yours truly — and talk-story sessions focused on personal development and self-awareness.
The first session was Saturday at Kuhio Beach. The teens, social workers and others eager to help out met at the Duke Kahanamoku statue, excited about getting in the water.
Part of the session included an introduction to surfing by Uncle Sam — a.k.a. the Hawaiian Santa Claus — who teaches surfing in Waikiki.

Uncle Sam demonstrating how to paddle.
Most of these teens — and social workers who came to help — had never surfed before. They didn't know what to expect, but they were all eager to find out what the hype around surfing was all about.

The lineup at Canoes.
It was a great day to be out in the water. A little south bump kept the waves coming, and everyone ended up catching waves and standing up.

One of the social workers catching her first wave!
Some of the teens realized very quickly how much work surfing takes. And while they complained about sore arms and tired muscles, they didn't give up. They wanted to catch one more wave.
I can't explain how incredible the experience was for me. To see these teens, many of whom don't often get the chance to do something healthy and fun, cheer each other on and smile uncontrollably while riding a wave was reward enough.
The best part was hearing them talk about the experience afterward, hearing them make plans about putting racks on their cars and spending their weekends at the beach, catching waves.
We didn't talk much about what they learned or why they need a healthy outlet in their lives. We didn't need to. They were doing something that made them happy — and that was the whole point!
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Derosier has raised $2,100 in just a few weeks for this program. But she needs $1,500 more to round her budget for this pilot program.
If you'd like to help, please mail your donation to:
Freetime Productions/Spirit Session Program
P.O. Box 1677
Kailua, HI 96734
For more information about her book, click here.